GAPCO itinerary and post-ride evaluation (long post)

This is our basic itinerary with some additional notes from our actual trip.  I am sure there will be a "2.0" version for future trips.  I have a breakdown of the cost, and a cost comparison to a couple of supported trips we considered, if anyone is interested in seeing that information. (Our total cost, including shirts and jerseys, was $1872.80.  Supported tours were $2490/person and $1840/person and did not include all meals.)  JB and I would love to host a trip with friends who want to take on the challenge of completing this hard thing. 

 

DAY ONE-Pittsburgh to Connellsville (60 miles)

Start in downtown Pittsburgh. Park at the Grant Street transportation garage across from the train station. The attendant at the garage has an extended parking form that will need to be filled out.

Ride to Point State Park and find the bronze medallion indicating the western terminus of the GAP trail. Mile 148.8

Lunch – West Newton GAP mile 114.1.   Subway on S. Water St.

End at Connellsville Comfort Inn GAP mile 88.8

Dinner - New York Pizza and pasta on Vanderbilt Road (in the Martin’s Plaza, recommend traveling back up the trail to the arch. That trailhead is right behind the plaza)

DAY TWO-Connellsville to Rockwood (45 miles)

Breakfast at the hotel

Ride through Ohiopyle-lots of natural beauty to see

Lunch - Confluence at Lucky Dog Café GAP mile 61.6  ** ended up eating at Riversedge Café and B&B because Lucky Dog had not opened up this year

Note:  The town of Confluence is off the trail, but they have a staffed information booth on the trail that was very helpful. They also have a great bike shop a little further down into town. Very much worth the time to investigate.

Detour:  Marklestown to Rockwood was still closed at the time of our ride. They were supposed to start work on that section the day we left Rockwood, so hopefully that 6-mile stretch will be open for future rides.

End at the Gingerbread House B&B on Rockdale Road GAP mile 43.8

Dinner - Dough Girls Pizza on Kingwood Road   ** The B&B owner informed us that this was not a bike-friendly place to find-it is, in fact, up a very steep hill. Our dinner ended up being a Dollar General frozen meal, but it was actually quite nice

Note:  There is really nothing to eat or do in Rockwood, especially on a Sunday evening. The American Legion next to the B&B is rumored to have good food, but it is a very smoky, uninviting environment. The gas station across the bridge is said to have very good, homemade pizza, but they close at six on Sunday and stop making pizza at five (and the man we spoke to there was less than nice.)

DAY THREE-Rockwood to Cumberland (45 miles)

Wonderful breakfast at the B&B. Breakfast was served at 8 AM.

Note:  This is a short day, but there are a lot of things to see… the Eastern Continental Divide, the Mason-Dixon Line. It is also the third day of trudging uphill, so the pace is slow.

Note #2:  Look for a small Amish fruit stand at the road crossing in Larimer. The Honeycrisp apples we bought were very refreshing and hit the spot.

Lunch - Frostburg at Mountain City Coffeehouse and Creamery   ** Closes at 2 PM. We got there too late (explanation will be in the section on things to change). We ate at Gianni‘s Pizza and Wings on E. Main St.  The food was excellent, but we ordered too much.

Finally downhill between Frostburg and Cumberland!

End at Cumberland  Fairfield Inn and Suites on North Wineow Street GAP mile 0

Note:  The mile 0 GAP medallion is right in front of the visitors center. The visitor center is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, so we were not able to go in. The marker for the beginning of the C&O towpath is a little difficult to find. You have to cross the canal and turn right. Down at the bottom of a small hill is the granite marker.

Dinner - Baltimore Street Grille on Baltimore Street  ** since everything is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, this restaurant was too busy and required a reservation. We ate at Uncle Jack’s Pizza and Pub on S. Mechanic St.  It is a very cute place with good food. There is also a Wendy’s within walking distance of the hotel.

Laundry night-this hotel is a major hub for supported GAPCO tours. The laundry facilities are nice but busy. We brought along our own detergent pods. We need to make sure to pack a laundry bag in the future.

DAY FOUR-Cumberland to Hancock (60 miles)

Breakfast at the Hotel

Find the granite marker indicating the start of the C&O towpath mile 184.4

Lunch - Paw Paw, WV at Grandma‘s Country Kitchen C&O mile   156.8  ** There was a very nice cement path leading from the canal into town (take the right before the underpass). Unfortunately, the restaurant no longer exists, having closed down about two years ago without updating the interactive maps or Google.  Liberty Gas Station, at the corner where we expected the restaurant to be, does have a very nice grill menu and a clean bathroom. We also noticed a Dollar General across the street.

Note:  Western Maryland Rail Trail is a nicely paved trail running parallel to the C&O.  Sideling Hill Aquaduct is better seen from this trail, but otherwise, it is a little boring.  However, it was very nice to be away from the rough C&O. There is an earlier entrance near Lock 58.  Leaving the C&O there would cut off some miles.  We decided to wait to get off the C&O at the second entrance, between Locks 57 and 56.

End at Hancock Super 8 Hotel on Limestone Rd. C&O mile 124.1 ** The hotel is a small jaunt up past the highway exit.  Be careful!!

Dinner at Hardee’s on E. Main St.  **Our first choice was Buddy Lou’s on E. Main St., but it is closed on Tuesdays. We walked by the restaurant and it would definitely be our first choice if we ride through on a day it is open…. Looks super fun!

DAY FIVE-Hancock to Harpers Ferry (60 miles)

Breakfast at the Super 8 Hotel was lacking protein.   It was basically cold or hot cereal, and packaged muffins/danishes. There is a Sheetz between the trail and the hotel to supplement the offerings.

Note:  This was the only day of rain during our trip. And it was 65 miles of rain and mud puddles.

Ride the Western Maryland Rail Trail until it ends around Big Pool, MD

Note:  Dam #5 is currently under construction with a marked detour. There is no way to ride the bike on the detour as it consists of a stairway and a treacherous path.

Lunch - Williamsport at Still Smokin’ Barbecue (we had it under the name, The Smokin’ Toad) on Conococheague St. **We ended up choosing to eat at Williamsport Diner on E. Potomac St.   We were cold, wet, and dirty, but they were super accommodating. They serve breakfast all day, along with other options, which were all very tasty.

Note:  Getting into the town of Williamsport is a little bit of a climb-nothing like Frostburg though.

End at Harpers Ferry, Stonehouse B&B on High Street  C&O mile 60.7  ** Currently, to get into Harpers Ferry, you must push/carry/cry over your bike and bags to get them up the metal stairs leading to the bridge across the water to town. They are currently working on changing that entrance to be more bike-friendly.

Dinner - Coachhouse Bar and Grill on High Street.  ** Chris, the B&B owner, was very accommodating with our messy bikes and late arrival. He was concerned that we were not going to find food because many stores in Harpers Ferry were closing early due to the rain and lack of business. The Coachhouse, which was right next door to the B&B, had in fact closed early. We were able to find food at The Rabbit Hole, just a few doors further up the road. We placed a takeout order, but would definitely love to visit the restaurant to eat in or on their back porch. The atmosphere was wonderful and the food was great too.

DAY SIX-Harpers Ferry to Georgetown, DC (60 miles)

Breakfast at the B&B was very good, but it was not served until 8:30 AM. This made for a later start than we wanted.

Note:  The visitor center in Harpers Ferry does not open until 10 AM. There is a bookstore on Shenandoah Street where we were able to obtain stamps in our National Parks Passbook for many of the trails and historical parks.

Lunch - Point of Rocks at Big Belly’s (previously Deli on the Rocks)  C&O mile 48.  **We planned this as a to-go meal.  Originally, we thought we would be there too early to eat lunch. We were able to pack the food into our bags with minor shuffling of items and take it to a camping area further up the trail.

White’s Ferry  C&O mile 35–The ferry is closed, but there is a Store & Grille that would be an optional lunch stop. 

Note: The C&O towpath surface is very rough.  In the last 30 miles, it turns to stone and pebble with areas that are loose pebble.  Also, watch closely for turtles and fallen branches. 

Note: Watch for the paved Capital Crescent Trail (there are no obvious markings, but you may see Fletcher’s Boathouse). This trail crosses the C&O several miles outside Georgetown and avoids C&O detours that lead up flights of stairs and through the busy streets of the city.

Thompson’s Boathouse, Georgetown  C&O mile 0 marker. Everything you read says the boathouse is hard to find, and most people are directed to the wrong one. I thought it was well marked (even though we passed the entrance by accident).  The marker is tucked behind the busy boathouse, and it is better to walk the bike in that area.

End at Adams Morgan One Room Retreat on Ontario St, DC (Airbnb). Jen and John were very helpful and accommodating with figuring out how to best store our bikes and how the bike trails/lanes would get us from the boathouse to the bnb and from the bnb to The Mall and Union Station to catch the train.  Nothing closes early in the city, and there are many restaurants, a pharmacy, and a grocery store within walking distance of the home.  The B&B has a great book explaining how to get around DC and has loaded metro cards available to use, and asks you to reload the amount you use during your stay.

Dinner - Retrobottega on 18th Street NW.  The food was a little expensive, but it was very good, and the atmosphere was so fun.

DAY SEVEN-Ride around DC and train back to Pittsburgh

Breakfast at the B&B-We stopped at the grocery store after dinner and picked up bagels, microwave egg soufflé, and juice.  The B&B has coffee (French press) and cream.

The bike trails and bike lanes are amazing throughout DC.  Drivers are pretty considerate of bikes.  The bike and motor scooter deliverers are crazy!  

National Parks Passbook stamps are all over!  I had already researched where to stop for the most stamps. It was very cool to see the monuments and memorials on the bikes.  We were not able to go into any museums, but that was ok. 

Union Station-Stop at the Amtrak desk for bike tags. The station is a little hard to move through with a bike. The food area is downstairs, and the elevator is small but manageable with some maneuvering. We tried the escalator back up--JB was strong enough to control his bike/bag load, but I was holding on for dear life. 

Note: Trains are often delayed, and there is nothing to do but wait it out.  The station has a nice waiting lounge for ticket-holders.  There are some shops in the station, and you are able to leave the station and spend time walking outside as well.

Note:  Have cash available to use in the cafe of the train, and bring snacks just in case.  The train experienced problems with its credit card machine, and, at one point, shut the cafe completely.  We thought we were going to eat a "granola bar dinner".  Fortunately, the cafe car was reopened, but was only able to accept cash payment.

Arrive in Pittsburgh, collect the bikes from the baggage car, squeeze into 2 more elevators, and find the car (it was 1:30 am when we finally pulled out of the garage).  Parking garage cost was less than I expected (approximately $70; I had calculated $113). 

What was done well:

For the most part, all the hotels and B&Bs were nice enough to use again.

Packing clothing for 3 days with a mid-week washday. 

Adjusted the meals on the go and had enough snacks and electrolyte mix

What to  change:

Ride passed Rockwood and use Meyersdale as Day 2 stop.  I need to look at the lodging and food available there, but we know Rockwood is lacking in food (the Gingerbread House was a great place to stay, though)

Do not eat at Frostburg!  The hike up the hills to the town lengthened the day and was exhausting.  It was a great "experience" but not one I would do again.

Have general lunch and dinner plans instead of specific places to stop.  It is important to know your midday stopping point and what the terrain and restaurant availability are in that area.  Remember, many shops close early in the day or are not open on Mondays or Tuesdays.

Start the trip on a Tuesday or Wednesday.

Start the long days a little earlier.  Breakfast time may need to be coordinated with the B&B host to leave by 9 am (at the latest). 

We needed more water for the 60-mile days

We had too much food left over.  Our plan was to use 2 Gu gels/day and one additional snack (granola bar or cranberry and nut mix).  We did not meet the plan.  Fortunately, neither of us “bonked” but there were a few times we were too hungry by the time we ate.